The car condenser is a vital component of the AC system that converts refrigerant from gas to liquid state so it can travel through the air conditioning system.
The condenser works as a heat exchanger, and during the conversion state, a tremendous amount of heat is forced out of the refrigerant.
Suppose the AC condenser clogs or is damaged; it will lose the proficiency of converting refrigerant into liquid state needed to generate cold air. However, the car ac condenser does not carry out the converting process alone.
The condenser fan and the radiator fan are designed to keep the condenser coil during the heat exchanging process to effectively convert refrigerant into liquid form to provide peak performance.
Usually, when the condenser starts to deteriorate or fails, it will show symptoms of a bad ac condenser in the car to notify the driver of a potential issue with the AC system.
How Does an A/C Condenser Work?
The condenser, as its name suggests, turns gas or vapor into liquid. In a vehicle’s A/C system, this means that it cools the gaseous refrigerant and changes it into a liquid as it prepares to move to the accumulator.
In older vehicles, the condenser processes R-12, while in cars from 1995 and newer, it works with R-134a.
Parts of the A/C System
While the condenser is vital to normal A/C operation, there are actually five other components that work together in complete harmony to ensure that the system performs optimally.
This is why, when a customer brings their car to the dealership, they wouldn’t immediately know why the air conditioning isn’t working as the different parts within the system typically present the same symptoms when failing.
#1. Condenser.
As previously mentioned, the condenser cools refrigerant gas and turns it back into its liquid form. Made up of a series of tubes, it resembles the radiator and can usually be found right in front of it.
#2. Compressor.
First we have the compressor, which is the most important part. It’s responsible for pressurizing the air and moving it to the condenser.
#3. Receiver/Dryer.
On cars with a thermal expansion valve, you will also find a receiver/dryer. Its main job is to separate the liquid and the gas.
A compressor is ruined if liquid makes its way inside, so this piece of equipment removes all moisture using desiccant (like those bead-filled packets you find when buying electronics).
#4. Accumulator.
Any vehicle with an orifice tube tends to have an accumulator. This component controls and monitors how much refrigerant makes its way to the evaporator. It’s also in charge of storing the refrigerant, removing moisture and filtering debris.
#5. Thermal Expansion Valve.
The thermal expansion valve or orifice tube is found between the condenser and the evaporator. These parts monitor pressure and temperature within the A/C system. They also calculate how much refrigerant can move to the evaporator.
#6. Evaporator.
The final part of a car air conditioning system is the evaporator. It’s located directly behind the dashboard. The evaporator is responsible for cooling the air with refrigerant prior to it reaching the cabin.
Symptoms of a bad AC condenser in a car
The most common symptoms of a bad car AC condenser include warm air blowing from the vents, a noticeable refrigerant leak, or an unpleasant smell coming from the air vents.
You might also see dashboard warning lights or even experience engine overheating while idling if the condenser has failed completely.
Here’s a more detailed look at the bad AC condenser symptoms and what each one means for your car’s air conditioning system.
#1. Warm Air From Vents.
The most common sign that something is wrong with the AC condenser is when warm air comes out of the vents. The condenser is responsible for cooling the air, so this is one of the most probable causes of this symptom.
A leak is one of the most common reasons for the condenser to fail, yet there could be a leak elsewhere too. If the system is low on refrigerant, you want to find out where that leak is coming from.
There are also other AC components that might have failed, leading to a warmer cabin. It’s even possible to have a blown fuse that’s causing the AC not to run correctly.
#2. Bad Smell From Vents.
If you aren’t taking care of your AC system, it can start to grow mold and bacteria. A foul odor is the next symptom to occur as a result of bacteria and mold growth.
Moisture normally drains out of the AC heater box, but it can get trapped inside the system when it’s not working properly. The buildup of moisture is what causes the smell to occur.
The Centers for Disease Control (CDC) warns about being in spaces with mold. It can lead to a stuffy nose, wheezing, coughing, a sore throat, a skin rash and burning eyes, especially if your immune system is already compromised.
To prevent mold in the AC, it’s important to run the system often. We recommend turning on the air conditioning and defrost system at least once a week for ten minutes. By allowing the system to flow, you keep moisture from building up.
#3. Leaking AC Refrigerant.
The AC condenser is installed at the front of the vehicle, exposed to rocks and other things that can damage it and cause a leak.
Therefore, it is quite common for the condenser to get damaged and leak. Additionally, any of the air conditioning components around there can start to fail and leak refrigerant.
If the refrigerant starts to leak, you’ll notice trouble getting the system to cool. Warm air will blow from the vents and you’ll be left sweating on a hot day.
We will show you a couple of ways to detect AC leaks in a few minutes. There’s one for the home user to try and another if you have professional tools as we do.
#4. Dashboard Warning Lights.
Depending on what’s causing the problem, you could get a dashboard warning light. In general, there aren’t any warning lights directed to a failure with the condenser.
However, if an electrical problem occurs because of the condenser failure, a code might be set for something else. We recommend using our online trouble code library to learn about the DTCs found with your compatible scanner.
#5. An Overheating Engine While Idling.
This symptom isn’t going to be common, but because it can happen, we felt the need to include it.
If the external fins clog on the condenser, the engine could be faced with working harder when there’s no external airflow. Therefore, the engine could overheat while the car idles.
To help prevent overheating, you could turn off the air conditioning system if you notice problems. By reducing the strain on the engine, you encourage it to cool down. You can also try to take the highway instead of urban streets, so you spend less time idling the car.
How The A/C Condenser Can Fail?
#1. Clogs or Blockages.
Condensers are subject to clogs over time due to the buildup of residue in the refrigerant, which eventually turns into a sticky paste that hinders the heat transfer that can take place from the hot refrigerant to the cool ambient air that gets blown over the condenser coil.
The second cause for a condenser malfunctioning is a blockage caused by debris. This is typically due to a worn compressor that is breaking apart and dispersing metallic internal parts throughout the entire system.
This means that if you’re dealing with a blockage, you might need to replace not just the condenser, but also the failing compressor, the tubes, and the receiver/dryer or accumulator, since metallic debris has contaminated the whole system.
A blocked condenser can cause a problem called short-cycling, which makes the A/C unit cycle on and off rapidly and ineffectively instead of optimal operation.
This abnormal cycling will cause more wear and tear on all components, thus you might have to replace many parts at the same time or replace the whole A/C unit prematurely.
#2. Faulty or Worn Parts.
The condenser itself consists of multiple parts: the coil, the motor, the fins, the condenser relay switch, the run capacitor, plus tubes and seals. If these parts become dirty or become worn with old age, your condenser might lose its function.
Sometimes you can clean or replace the faulty part itself, sometimes you’ll need to replace the whole condenser or the entire A/C unit. When to repair and when to replace your faulty condenser will be discussed further below.
#3. Leaks.
Another reason for a failing condenser is leaks. The condenser seals and tubes are prone to normal wear and tear; they can crack or break. Another possibility is damages from physical impact by road debris or rocks, as the condenser is located near the front of a car.
A leak in the condenser can lead to a low refrigerant charge and thus poor A/C performance, since the system relies on the refrigerant for operations.
How to diagnose car ac condenser?
Let’s look at how to check the car ac condenser. Not only checking the condenser is easy and effective, it’s also a priority for a periodic inspection of the AC system. Diagnosing your AC condenser periodically can save you a lot of expenses and headaches.
A lot of people don’t priorities the condenser during system inspection but are focused on system charge, leakage, or compressor operation and what they don’t realize is that a lot of times, the system problems have their root cause in the condenser problems.
Since the condenser is exposed to extreme wear and tear, it’s made of fin aluminum and works with highly pressurized refrigerant, and it’s pretty fragile, It doesn’t take much to leak or break.
Now, one of the tools you need for this inspection will be your eyes, that’s right. I recommend a regular visual inspection of the condenser surface and that you replace it whenever you find a severe problem.
It can save you from system and compressor repairs – and having the car already in the garage; it won’t take too much time to perform a simple visual inspection.
The only way you’ll be able to tell if there are any potential signs of failure is if you have unhindered access to the condenser and its entire surface.
#1. Corrosion.
One of the things you want to keep an eye on is corrosion – especially underneath the condenser where tubes and fins are exposed to humidity softening the most.
The corrosion often starts with the fins between the channels. Even if they still look tight, the deteriorated fins will always lead to deficiency in the AC system.
#2. Missing fins.
One row of missing fins can decrease the condenser capacity by 5%, and an ineffective condenser will increase the workload on other system components, especially the compressor.
And in a worst-case scenario, an ineffective condenser can become overheated and have a complete seizure. Now, without the fins, the entire construction of the condenser gets loosen and destabilize.
In a shaky environment like the engine compartment, it might now be normal for the condenser to have a severe leakage as the tubes disconnect from the sidetracks.
#3. Refrigerant leaks.
The next common problem of the condenser is leakage. Leaks can also be spotted on the condenser surface and should be considered a threat to the system.
Remember
Leaking leads to a lack of refrigerant which means the system gets exposed to abnormal conditions without proper pressure and limited lubrication.
Oil residues in the condenser indicate leaks
As the oil travels along with the refrigerant, once there is a leak, the gaseous, the refrigerant escapes through it, and the oil leaves tracks. Now, the leak could be caused by corrosion or mechanical damages.
The range of root causes can be pretty wide and difficult to avoid. Pressure cleaners, improper installation, insects, rocks, or even fender benders can damage the fragile condenser surface and cause critical leaks.
Using UV lamp
Most of the condenser leaks can be spotted using UV lamp by sparking the dial and tracking the tubes or using other tube detecting tools.
This visual inspection method can also help you spot other failures that are no leaks. You should always replace the condenser if it’s leaking, has missing fins or deteriorated fins, bent tubes, or inner clogs.
So remember, always include a visual inspection on the condenser whenever servicing a car. Potential leaks and severe damages can be prevented.
Can You Test An AC Condenser?
You can find two ways to test for a leak in the AC condenser. One is perfectly acceptable to do at home, while the other is usually reserved for professional mechanics. We’ve included steps for both.
Without a Leak Detector
- Make sure the AC system is fully charged.
- Spray a water and soap mixture on the AC components.
- Watch for signs of leaks to appear, resembling bubbles.
You can do this with the condenser, compressor and evaporator. However, AC leaks are often very small, and it’s difficult to find them without the right equipment.
Additionally, there are Freon dyes available at auto parts stores that can be used, which is often a better alternative, but you need to drain and refill the AC system for this method.
You also won’t be able to use these dyes unless you understand the basics of charging the AC system.
With a Leak Detector
- Ensure the system is fully charged.
- Turn off the engine.
- Only diagnose the system on a day without wind.
- Scan the system with your leak detector to see where it’s coming from.
If there’s no leak present, the next step is to examine the condenser for a clog. Checking the pressures with an air conditioning manifold gauge will give you the answers needed.
When the condenser is clogged, there will be high pressure with the right amount of refrigerant present. You could see high pressures on the low and high sides.
How do you change an AC condenser?
After noticing one or more of the symptoms above, and an inspection proves the AC condenser is the culprit, the next thing you want to do is find out how to replace the ac condenser or take it to an HVAC expert for replacement. The good news is, I’m going to show you how to change the car ac condenser.
Materials Needed
- Common socket set
- Wrench set
- Vacuum pump
- Eye protection
- AC manifold toolset
- AC line O rings
- Condenser
- Refrigerant R134
- AC refrigerant Recovery tank
#1. Discharging and recovering the air-conditioning refrigerant.
Connect the AC manifold toolset. Ensure the connections are tight and there are no leaks. The manifold toolset has three lines; yellow, red, and blue. Connect the yellow line to the recovering machine.
Then, connect the red hose to the high-pressure line and the blue hose to the low-pressure line.
Start the engine and check all the pressure. Wait for about 30 minutes for the machine to recover all the refrigerant. Once the recovery process is complete, the gauge should read zero.
#2. Removing components blocking access to the condenser.
You have to remove every component blocking your access to the ac condenser. This might include; front bumper, headlights, mounting brackets, radiators, condenser fan, or grill. Do not remove the condenser yet.
#3. Remove the Air-conditioning lines.
Before removing the condenser, you have to disconnect and remove the AC lines. Ensure you put on your eye protection when disconnecting the AC lines in case of refrigerant pressure remains in the system. Also, you want to take off the O rings as well.
#4. Remove the condenser.
Now, lose the condenser mounting bolts. In some vehicles, the condenser is attached to the radiator. Once you have loosened the bolts, gently take off the condenser unit to ensure no bolts remain so it won’t snag on any wiring or hoses.
#5. Install the new condenser and the AC lines.
Evaluate and compare both condensers. Ensure both condensers match precisely and have the same fitting location, especially if the new condenser is aftermarket parts.
Carefully check all mounts and dimensions; if you find any discrepancies, do not mount them. However, if both condensers are the same, install the new condenser with the installation brackets.
Coat the o rings with oil and install them to ensure proper seals. Reinstall all the components you removed early.
#6. Place the AC system into a vacuum.
Before recharging the AC unit, you have to place the system in a vacuum for around 30-45 minutes using a recovering machine or vacuum gauge and a manifold gauge set. Make sure there are no leaks before recharging the AC system.
#7. Recharging the AC unit.
Ensure you use the correct refrigerant for your car, usually R134 for most modern cars. You can find the recommended refrigerant on a service tag underside of the hood, or in your owner’s booklet. The charging is typically done with the engine idling at 1500RPM or more.
#8. Check the AC performance.
After all diagnosis and repair, you want to check the AC performance to see if you did a superb and smooth job. You need to turn on the AC and allow it to run for 5-10 minutes. If you have done an excellent job, the condenser will provide peak cooling performance.
Final word
Tracing the symptoms of a bad ac condenser in a car, diagnosing, and changing air conditioning system components such as the condenser may look like a difficult job.
But, it can be done with little assistance. This article pays off as not only did you save car ac condenser replacement cost, it also gives you an insight into what’s under the hood.