Engine Running Lean Vs. Rich: Causes, Symptoms And Fixes

There is a delicate balance to maintain when it comes to optimum engine performance. This means that you should keep tabs on lean vs rich when your engine is working.

For a good combustion process to occur in a vehicle engine, the air-fuel ratio has to be 14.7:1. 14.7 is the air portion, and 1. is the fuel portion.

When the fuel portion is higher than the air, the engine will start running rich. On the flip side, if the fuel portion is lower than its required portion, which means not enough fuel is getting through – the engine will start running lean.

This article will explain the causes, symptoms, effects, and how to fix an engine running lean or Rich. Many components ensure there is an adequate fuel-air ratio.

For instance, the engine control unit (ECU) in every vehicle is primarily responsible for maintaining an adequate air-fuel ratio.

Emission sensors, MAF sensors, Oxygen sensors, fuel injectors, and MAP sensors also ensure an adequate mixture ratio to prevent the engine from running lean vs rich.

What is a lean fuel mixture?

When an engine runs on a lean fuel mixture, it means that there is an excess of air relative to fuel in the combustion chamber.

This lean condition is typically characterized by a higher air-to-fuel ratio, often exceeding the stoichiometric ratio of 14.7:1 for gasoline engines.

While a lean mixture offers benefits such as reduced emissions and improved fuel economy, it also comes with its own set of challenges.

What is a rich fuel mixture?

Conversely, a rich fuel mixture contains an excess of fuel compared to air in the combustion chamber.

This rich condition often results in a lower air-to-fuel ratio, with more fuel available for combustion. While a rich mixture can provide enhanced engine cooling and smoother operation, it also has its drawbacks.

Lean vs Rich Fuel Mixture: What’s the Difference?

Engine Running Lean Vs. Rich

When talking about an internal combustion engine being lean or rich, we’re referring to the air-fuel ratio (AF ratio) in the combustion chamber.

The modern internal combustion engine in most cars today is designed to operate close to the stoichiometric mixture. This refers to the ideal air-fuel ratio needed for complete combustion and measures about 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel (14.7:1) for a gasoline engine.

A lean mixture contains more air relative to fuel, which reduces emissions and improves fuel economy.

However, it can reduce power, cause the engine to overheat, and lead to a ‘soft seize.’ A soft seize occurs when a piston rubs against the cylinder wall, creating frictional damage on the side of the piston.

On the other hand, a rich running engine has more fuel than air. The extra fuel cools the engine more effectively but increases fuel consumption and emissions.

If the engine isn’t designed for a rich idle mixture, it can impact your car’s performance and harm other components, such as the spark plugs.

Engine Running Lean Causes

While identifying an engine running lean could be trickier than a rich engine, it’s just critical to find the causes. Several problems can cause an engine to run lean. I have outlined the most common causes below.

#1. Clogged Fuel filter.

Your fuel filter handles all the dirty works. The fuel filter ensures that all the gunk, dirt, grimes, and everything that gets into your fuel tank does not get into the engine. Over time, all the gunk and dirt start building up and preventing adequate fuel passage.

While the fuel filter element prevents dirt from getting through, the gunk and everything it’s filtering out will eventually clog the fuel filter. This is why it is recommended to change your fuel filter regularly.

#2. Clogged Fuel injectors.

Another reason you want to clean your fuel filter is to prevent dirt from getting into the fuel injectors. Unlike fuel filters that can hold tons of dirt and grimes,  small dirt and grimes can damage fuel injectors.

Once they are blocked, they won’t supply the proper air-fuel ratio into the combustion chamber. In some cases, you’ll need to replace them entirely –cleaning might not work.

#3. Lousy fuel pump or Clogged strainer.

Lean vs rich engine issues starts from the fuel pump. A running lean tells that not enough fuel is getting to the combustion chamber, fuel traveling to the combustion chamber starts with the fuel pump.

If you have a lousy or clogged fuel pump, it won’t be able to export the required amount of fuel out of the tank –leading to low fuel pressure, which could result in the engine running lean.

Unfortunately, changing a lousy fuel pump on some vehicles can be difficult if you don’t have the required tools.

Despite the fact that it is a common reason for inadequate fuel supply, you don’t want it to be the cause as replacing it could cost you between $350 and $600.

Clogged strainer; this can happen in two ways. If the strainer expands on the opening that fits in with the fuel pump, there will be a pressure leak. The second way, if the strainer gets clogged, it will not allow enough gas to pass through.

#4. Leaking fuel lines.

The fuel pump exports gas with pressure. If there is a fuel leak along the lines, it will cause a loss of fuel pressure. Leaking fuel lines cause the engine to run lean. It will also cause a fire outbreak that could result in the loss of lives.

#5. Vacuum leak.

Vacuum leaks can cause fuel loss problems. One of the problems happens when unmeasured air enters the system, creating an unbalanced air-fuel mixture.

#6. Bad fuel pressure regulator.

Bad fuel pressure regulator will definitely cause lean issues. A bad regulator may leak fuel, causing loss of fuel pressure.

#7. Lousy Oxygen sensors.

Since a large number of outputs are controlled by sensors in modern vehicles, a defective oxygen sensor will possibly cause your engine to run lean.

The oxygen sensor tells your vehicle (ECU) engine control unit how much fuel to add to each cylinder.

So, when the oxygen sensor fails, it will start reading excessive false emissions, thereby telling the engine control unit to send less fuel to the combustion chambers. Regardless of how little fuel it sends, the lousy Oxygen sensor will keep signaling excessive emissions.

I got news for you. You should always hope for this the reason when your engine is running lean because it’s cheap and easy to fix.

Engine Running Lean Symptoms

A lean running condition means the air-fuel ratio is is getting to much air for the amount of gas.

If the fuel mixture is too lean, you may experience:

  • The engine overheats easily.
  • Performance improves with the choke on.
  • Acceleration is poor or stumbling.
  • Engine doesn’t respond when the throttle is snapped open.
  • Engine speeds up when the throttle is closed.
  • There is a lack of engine power, RPMs fluctuate.
  • The spark plugs are white or burned.
  • Popping through the carb when the throttle is opened.
  • Popping through the exhaust on acceleration.
  • The engine runs better in warm weather.
  • Performance gets worse with the air filter removed.

Lean Fuel Mixture Effects

Engine running lean has more to do than using gas efficiently. When an engine operates with lesser gas than it requires, it creates higher friction on the engine’s moving parts.

When an engine is running lean, there is an inappropriate air-fuel mixture, mostly on 2-stroke engines.

You might want to know lean vs rich 2 strokes. Engine running lean has higher effects on two-stroke engines. Let’s quickly look at the effects associated with the engine running lean.

#1. Hard seizure.

Hard seizure means the chambers and pistons has heated up more than the engine can carry due to an engine running lean.

The Pistons may typically grind against the cylinder walls if you fail to fix this issue. The cod rod can bend, or the crankshaft arm can snap or bend. The effect is a catastrophic one and will require you to either replace or rebuild the engine.

#2. Soft seize.

Soft seize represent the catastrophic damages caused by friction between the engine cylinder walls and the Pistons.

Over time, a dry spot occurs where the engine-moving parts rub together. This rubbing may cause friction or burns on the cylinder walls and pistons.

Suppose you fix this, and the normal air-fuel mixture returns; the cylinder and pistons will work fine, but the damages will still be there.

#3. Engine cut out.

When the engine fuel injection systems supply no fuel to the combustion chamber, the combustion process will not take place, and the car engine will stop working. When the cause of this is fixed,  the engine will run at an optimum operating level.

How to Diagnose a Lean-Running Engine

Diagnosing a lean-running engine involves several steps and industry tips to ensure accuracy. Here are some common methods used by professionals:

#1. Check Engine Light.

Start by checking if the check engine light is illuminated on your dashboard. Use an OBD-II scanner to retrieve fault codes. Codes related to the air-fuel ratio, such as P0171 or P0174, indicate the engine is running lean.

#2. Oxygen Sensor Readings.

Use an OBD-II scanner to access real-time oxygen sensor data. The oxygen sensors should cycle between rich and lean.

Consistently low voltage readings (closer to 0.1V) indicate a lean condition. Compare the sensor readings from different sensors to identify any discrepancies.

#3. Examine Fuel Trim.

Analyze the short-term and long-term fuel trim values using an OBD-II scanner. Positive fuel trim values suggest the ECU adds more fuel to compensate for a lean condition. Values above 10% may indicate a significant lean issue that needs to be addressed.

#4. Inspect Vacuum Hoses.

Conduct a visual inspection of all vacuum hoses for signs of wear, cracks, or disconnections.

Listen for hissing sounds that could indicate a vacuum leak. A smoke machine is used to detect hard-to-find leaks by filling the intake system with smoke and watching for any escaping smoke.

#5. Test Fuel Pressure.

Measure the fuel pressure using a fuel pressure gauge. Connect the gauge to the fuel rail and compare the readings with the manufacturer’s specifications. Low fuel pressure can result from a failing fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter, contributing to a lean condition.

#6. Inspect Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF).

Remove the MAF sensor and inspect it for dirt or debris. If necessary, clean the sensor using an MAF cleaner.

A dirty or faulty MAF sensor can send incorrect airflow data to the ECU, leading to a lean air-fuel mixture.

After cleaning, reinstall the sensor and clear any fault codes before rechecking the engine’s performance. Here is our detailed guide on troubleshooting a defective MAF sensor.

How to fix lean fuel mixture effects

Since you have known the symptoms and causes of an engine running lean, fixing a lean fuel mixture effect won’t be a pain in the ass.

Let’s get something straight; engine running lean is a problem and a symptom of another problem. That said, fixing an engine running lean requires fixing the actual cause of the problem.

  • Vacuum leak: Vacuum leaks can cause a lean fuel mixture. Inspecting and replacing damaged vacuum lines with good hoses and clamps can solve a lean problem.
  • Clogged fuel filter: clogged fuel filters will limit the amount of fuel required by the engine. When your engine is running lean, you want to inspect your fuel filter and replace it if it’s clogged.
  • Check fuel lines: you want to check your fuel lines for leaks and fix them if there is any leak. There could be fuel leaks inside the gas tank. You have to inspect the fuel hose inside the fuel tank if you previously worked on it.
  • Bad fuel pump or clogged strainer:  you have to diagnose the fuel pump’s pressure if the pressure is low; you would also want to replace the bad fuel pump and clogged strainer.
  • Check and replace lousy Oxygen sensor: you have to diagnose and replace any lousy Oxygen sensor so that the ECU will receive accurate information of what’s happening in the exhaust system.
  • Clogged or dirty fuel injectors: As one of the possible causes of an engine running lean, you want to diagnose and replace any clogged fuel injectors.
  • Lousy Mass Air Flow: You have to diagnose and replace the lousy MAF sensor to prevent it from sending false air-fuel mixture ratio readings to the ECU.

Engine Running Rich Symptoms

There are quite a number of symptoms associated with an engine that’s running rich. These symptoms can result from other issues with the engine, but taken as a whole, they are indicative of an engine that’s receiving too much fuel.

#1. Check Engine Light.

Since a car or truck running rich is an issue pertaining to the engine, the Check Engine Light turning on is often one of the first indications that something is wrong.

It could signal that the fuel-to-air ratio is out of whack, or something else. Regardless, DON’T EVER ignore it.

The engine is the most expensive part of any car, so any damage to it can lead to very costly repairs.

#2. Pungent Exhaust Smell.

When too much fuel enters the combustion chambers, an unusual amount of fuel will not be fully ignited in the combustion process.

The catalytic converter is designed to remove some of this unburnt fuel; however, much of it will simply pass through to the exhaust, resulting in a pungent rotten egg smell.

#3. Poorer Fuel Economy.

Naturally, you can expect your car or truck’s fuel economy to drop if an excess amount of fuel is being used.

Bear in mind, however, that vehicles typically use up more fuel during winter driving or when carrying heavy loads. Even so, if you notice that your fuel mileage is lower than normal under all conditions, you’re probably dealing with an engine that’s running rich.

#4. Sluggish Engine.

Seeing as your engine needs a perfect mixture of fuel and air to operate optimally, an imbalance will result in a drop in its performance.

You’d think an overflow of fuel into an engine would cause it to perform better, but that isn’t the case. Much of that excess fuel doesn’t get combusted and simply passes through the exhaust as waste.

#5. High Carbon Monoxide Emissions.

Your car’s exhaust is designed to expel a certain level of carbon monoxide, but if the engine is running too rich, this level will be higher than it can handle.

Vehicles commonly fail emissions tests because of a rich-running engine.

The expulsion of too much carbon monoxide poses a serious health risk, especially if some of it gets into the interior while driving and is inhaled.

#6. Rough Engine Idle.

A rich fuel mixture could also cause rough idling. You may notice that your car or truck feels rough or even vibrates when the engine is running.

The RPMs will behave erratically, and the vibration can be so bad that you feel it while driving.

#7. Sooty Spark Plugs.

The spark plugs in rich-running engines tend to accumulate an excessive amount of black deposits at their bottom, reducing their efficiency. If left untreated, this soot can find its way on other parts of the engine, causing even more damage.

Simply cleaning the plugs of the soot won’t address the underlying problem.

#8. Black Exhaust Smoke.

Just like how Mexican food causes some people to have diarrhea, an air-fuel mixture that’s running too rich will sometimes cause your engine to produce black exhaust smoke. Neither is pleasant.

If you’re concerned about your car’s unpleasant-looking emissions, then it’s about time you checked the air-fuel mixture.

Engine running Rich Causes And Fixes

#1. O2 Sensor.

The oxygen or lambda sensors are responsible for monitoring the exhaust fumes. Sensor 2 is located after the catalytic converter, and only monitors its effectiveness, but otherwise has no impact on the engine.

Sensor 1 is located between the engine and the catalytic converter and is much more important.

Sensor 1 registers when unburnt fuel leaves the engine block and sends a signal to the ECU to adjust the air-fuel mixture and run lean. Failure of the sensor leads to either incorrect or complete lack of feedback so the engine will continue to run rich.

How To Change The O2 Sensor

As it’s located between the exhaust manifold and the catalytic converter, sensor 1 is still within the engine bay and easier to access than sensor 2.

Its exact locations vary greatly depending on the layout of the engine, but if follow the exhaust pipes from the engine block, you’ll find a wire and a plug protruding from the exhaust.

Step by step instructions
  1. Disconnect the battery.
  2. Disconnect the sensor power plug.
  3.  Slot the oxygen sensor socket over the wire and unscrew the sensor.
  4. Place a small amount of anti-seize on the thread of the new sensor.
  5. Install the new sensor and connect the power plug.
  6. Reconnect the battery.

#2. MAF Sensor.

MAF stands for mass air flow and this sensor is responsible for monitoring the amount of air flowing through the intake towards the engine. Just like the O2 sensor, the MAF sensor sends data back to the ECU so it can adjust the air-fuel mixture.

Failures of the MAF sensor are accompanied by a severe loss of power and increased fuel consumption.

How To Change The MAF Sensor

Changing the MAF sensor won’t be difficult as it’s easily accessible from the top of the engine bay. To find the sensor, start at the air filter housing and trace the air hose towards the engine – the sensor will be in the way.

You can opt to clean the sensor instead of replacing it. Keep in mind that you’ll have to use a special MAF cleaner as WD-40 or other cleaners will damage it.

Step by step instructions
  1. Disconnect the battery.
  2. Pull the power plug out of the MAF sensor.
  3. Unscrew the MAF sensor and pull it out.
  4. To clean it, spray it with the MAF cleaner and let it dry.
  5. Install the cleaned or new MAF sensor in place.
  6. Reconnect the power plug and the battery.

#3. IAT Sensor.

The intake air temperature sensor does exactly as the name describes, and it’s usually a separate device from the MAF sensor which measures the volume of air. On some engines, the MAF and IAT sensors are combined into one.

Temperature affects the density of air. The colder the air is, the denser and oxygen richer it will be. More oxygen makes for better combustion, which is why the aftermarket cold air intake upgrades have become so popular.

How To Change The IAT Sensor

The process of changing the IAT sensor is identical, if not easier than changing the MAF sensor. The two are sometimes built into the same housing, and in those circumstances, follow the steps for replacing the MAF sensor.

Step by step instructions
  1. Disconnect the battery.
  2. Pull out the power plug and remove the sensor.
  3. Install the new sensor and reconnect the power plug.
  4. Reconnect the battery.

#4. TPS Sensor.

Moving up the air intake towards the engine, we have the throttle body and the throttle position sensor (not to be confused with TPMS – tire pressure monitoring system).

As a part of the fuel management system, the data provided by the TPS is combined with data from other sensors to adjust the amount of fuel injected into cylinders.

How To Change The TPS Sensor

The trend of easily removable sensors continues, as the TPS can be swapped in just a few minutes with just a screwdriver. The only complication you might experience is the seizing of the screws – you can use the grip pliers to break them loose.

Step by step instructions
  1. First, disconnect the battery.
  2. Remove the power plug from the TPS sensor.
  3. Take out the two screws holding the sensor in place. Use pliers if they’re stuck.
  4. Install the new sensor, connect the power plug and the battery.

#5. Fuel Pressure Regulator.

The job of the fuel pressure regulator isn’t to keep the fuel flowing at constant pressure – it actually adapts the pressure based on the throttle input. Failure of the fuel pressure regulator will cause a number of performance issues, including the running rich problems.

How To Change The Fuel Pressure Regulator

To replace the fuel pressure regulator, you have to take it off the end of the fuel rail without the fuel line hose. You’ll be working around gasoline, so make sure to take all the necessary safety precautions.

Step by step instructions
  1. Start by disconnecting the battery to prevent any fires.
  2. Remove the vacuum hose off the regulator.
  3. Use the appropriate wrench to unscrew the fuel line bracket.
  4. With the same wrench, you can unscrew the regulator from the fuel rail.
  5. Before you pull off the regulator, place a small container underneath to catch any fuel still present in the fuel rail.
  6. Carefully remove the clips that connect the regulator to the fuel line.
  7. Before you install the new regulator, use a touch of engine oil to lubricate the O-ring seals.
  8. Reconnect the fuel line, mount the regulator on the rail and reinstall the fuel line bracket.
  9. Put the vacuum hose back in place and reconnect the battery.

#6. Fuel Injectors.

Fuel injectors spray a precise amount of fine fuel mist into the cylinders to create an ideal mixture for combustion. Failing injectors will cause misfires, poor gas mileage, loss of power, failure to start, and rough idle.

How To Change The Fuel Injectors

Changing the fuel injectors will take you a couple of hours and it’s a bit of a delicate process. Still, I believe it’s not out of your scope of abilities, even if you’re relatively new to DIY repairs.

Step by step instructions
  1. Disconnect the fuel pump relay located inside the fuse box.
  2. Crank the vehicle a few times.
  3. Disconnect the battery and reinstall the fuel pump relay.
  4. Before you disconnect the fuel rail plugs, use tape and mark the sequence in which they’re mounted.
  5. Unscrew the bolts holding the rail in place and disconnect the power plugs.
  6. Take a photo of the fuel rail where the injectors meet the engine block for reference.
  7. Pull the rail straight back. Be careful, but use some force to make it come off.
  8. Take off the clips holding the old fuel injectors in place, and they’ll come off the rail.
  9. Install the new fuel injectors along with new clips.
  10. Push the fuel rail back in place. Look at the photo to see if the injectors are in the right location.
  11. Screw the fuel rail and put the power plugs back in the right order.
  12. Reconnect the battery and check if there’s anything out of place.

#7. CTS Sensor.

The coolant temperature sensor, otherwise known as the engine coolant temperature (ECTS/ECT) sends data to the ECU so it can adjust the fuel-air mixture accordingly.

It’s normal for a cold engine to run richer because the conditions for optimal combustion have not yet been made.

Failed CTS can make the ECU think that the engine is cold even when it’s not, so it will run rich unnecessarily. Another clear symptom of the CTS problem is the temperature gauge going up and down while driving, as the ECU can’t figure out the exact reading.

How To Change The Coolant Temperature Sensor

Step by step instructions
  1. Place the bucket underneath the coolant sensor in case you get some leakage.
  2. Pull the power plug out of the coolant sensor.
  3. For the next step, you’ve got to work quickly. Use the socket to unscrew the old sensor, and as soon as it’s out, place the new one in to prevent further leakage.
  4. Tighten the new sensor and reattach the power plug.

#8. Coolant Temperature Valve.

The coolant temperature valve or thermostat operates on an ingenious principle. When the coolant is cold, it restricts its flow to allow it to heat up. Once it reaches an optimal temperature, the valve will automatically adjust the flow to keep the temperature stable.

When it fails, the valve usually shuts open and allows full flow at all times. Unlike the sensor, this will actually make the engine run cold and cause it to burn more fuel.

The engine is not supposed to run cold for long and faces serious damage if it continues to do so.

How To Change The Coolant Temperature Valve

Step by step instructions
  1. Place a bucket underneath the thermostat, as some coolant will pour out.
  2. With the screwdriver, loosen the clamps and pull the hose off the thermostat.
  3. Remove the old thermostat and install the new one.
  4. Put the hose back in place and tighten the clamp. You can use the original hose clamp or replace it with a new one.
  5. Check the coolant level. If it’s low, you can reuse the drained coolant, or top it off with fresh coolant. Make sure you don’t mix coolant colors.

#9. ECU.

Replacing the ECU is very simple – once you gain access, it’s just a matter of unscrewing a couple of screws and pulling power plugs out.

However, ECUs are one of the most reliable components and it’s very unlikely to fail. On top of that, the ECU is very expensive, from $500 to several thousand dollars.

If you’ve ruled out all the other options, I would advise you to take your vehicle to a professional and get it diagnosed.

The cheap OBD2 scanners have some limitations, so it’s better to invest some cash into the help of a professional, instead of making a potentially unnecessary purchase of a new ECU.

Rich Fuel Mixture Effects

Engine running Rich will lead to several effects on the performance and longevity of the engine. It will lead to effects like low gas mileage, shaking while driving, reduced engine efficiency, poor acceleration, and a strong gas smell.

These effects, however, could be a symptom of bigger issues occurring in the combustion chamber. To fight the dangers associated with an engine running rich, you want to watch out for the outlined Symptoms of a rich engine.

Ensuring your engine receives the right air-fuel ratio mixture is key to your engine’s performance and lifespan. It is necessary to be on the lookout for a lean vs. rich engine so you can tackle the cause on time.

Can You Drive With a Lean or Rich Engine?

While you can technically drive with an imbalanced air-fuel mixture, you should avoid doing so.

A lean engine can affect the throttle, leading to risky situations and potentially damaging expensive engine components like the oxygen sensor and fuel pump.

Driving with a lean mixture may be problematic, even in the short term. There’s a greater risk of rough idling, overheating, and engine knocking. Continuously running a lean engine can lead to a soaring combustion temp, causing significant engine damage.

On the other hand, driving with a rich mixture might create short-term fuel efficiency and sudden power surge problems.

However, over time, a rich mixture can foul your spark plugs, cause carbon to build up in the combustion chamber, and damage the catalytic converter.

If you suspect your vehicle is running rich or lean, you should book an appointment with a mobile mechanic as soon as possible.

FAQs.

Q: Does backfire mean lean or rich?

Backfiring is a critical state that does not only occur when you have a rich air-fuel ratio mixture; a mixture that lacks enough fuel will also cause an engine to misfire.

When a lean fuel combusts, it burns slowly, resulting in unburnt fuel remaining when the exhaust valves open, leading to engine backfire.

Q: How do I tell if a carburetor is lean or rich?

Heavy black carbon on the exhaust tailpipe would tell you the air-fuel mixture is much too rich. On the flip side, a blistered or yellowish appearance on spark plug electrodes indicates an overly lean fuel ratio.

Q: Does a lean engine run hot?

There has been a misconception on queries like, does a lean engine run hot? The answer to this is yes!

This is because slow combustion means less energy put into mechanical work, which will generate heat – the engine will then absorb the heat, resulting in the engine running rich.

Q: Is it better to run the too-lean or rich engines?

An engine running slightly rich will give more power, but running lean will cause catastrophic engine damage.

Running too rich can also cause severe damage to your engine. Think of when you’re doing an oil change; it is safer to add a little more oil than not pour up to the normal gauge.

Q: What is a good AFR at idle?

If you are comparing lean vs rich AFR for performance, then I suggest you run an AFR of 14:1, or you can step up the game and run richer at 13.5:1.

Most modified engines will run better at 14.5:1 and produce excellent MPG. If you’re considering better performance and want to go higher than what I suggest, you may want to run at 13.5:1 AFR or even richer to 13:1. This has answered queries like rich or lean for more power.

Final word

If you rely on your car’s engine for function and fun, you have to maintain your engine’s health.

The best way to guarantee your engine longevity and performance is to take it for regular schedule inspection and maintenance whenever you notice something wrong.

Having in-depth knowledge about lean vs rich will help you figure out when something isn’t right in your combustion chamber.

Leave a Comment